About
Üs
Studio Kühü is a fashion and textile studio based in London that specialises in natural dyeing.
Through a circular process and sustainability, Studio Kuhu provides a healthier alternative to traditional textile dyeing for individuals and Fashion brands.
Bringing textiles and clothing that tell a story filled with colour, inspired by what is available locally and seasonally, as well as the colourful botany of the American continent.
The studio only uses the highest quality organic materials, with a focus on documenting and paying tribute to the wonderful properties and colourful richness of the Americas, particularly Mexico, which is the birthplace of Mariana, the hands behind Studio Kühü.
Kühü means "colour" in the Otomi language, which is still spoken in central Mexico. Studio Kühü reflects the botanical richness, ancestral heritage, artisanal mastery, avant-garde design, and visual delight.
Our Manifesto
The alchemy of experimentation producing sustainable, genderless and beautiful pieces. We want to inspire and inform mindful colouration, sampling, fabrication, and authentic garment iconography.
As in nature every piece is unique.
Adding our brick to the foundation of a revitalised and considered reflection of fashion and its role for a sustainable planet.
The Hands behind Studio Kühü
Mariana Leyva is a skilled fashion designer and textile artist. She has previously held various roles in the fashion industry, including buyer, creative design manager, merchandiser, product developer, and consultant. Currently, Mariana works exclusively with natural dyes and organic materials and is the founder and driving force behind Studio Kühü.
Mariana's connection with plants and flowers has always been very personal and special. Since she was a child and helped her 'Mama and Abuela' in the kitchen, she learnt the properties of herbs and plants used for cooking and healing ‘los males’ – the ailments, also the goodness of revamping clothes with Mexican marigold 'cempasuchil' and avocado pits.
She was born and raised in Mexico City. She holds a Master's degree in Luxury Fashion Business Management from Esden Fashion Business School in Spain, a degree in Fashion Business from Istituto Marangoni in Milan, and a Diploma in Sustainable Fashion colour and dyeing from Saint Martins.
Mariana moved to London in 2015 and while working with local designers, she got inspired to rediscover her style. However, working in the fashion industry made her feel frustrated as she was unable to produce sustainable designs. To overcome this challenge, Mariana began studying botanical gardens and developed a more energetic relationship with plants. Her desire to create conscious clothing is linked to her expanding knowledge of colour and the dye properties of plants and flowers.
Nearly 7 years ago, it was then when Studio Kühü was born and Mariana continues her journey of experimenting, learning and sharing her passion for sustainable dyes and techniques.
“My work expresses my Mexican heritage and UK influence with a contemporary aesthetic. I am still in the nonstop process of understanding how powerful plants are, and their non-verbal and chemical communication with us.
A blend of dyes from the Americas combined with flowers sourced locally and applied with ancient techniques on UK and European materials. My pieces are homage to nature and an expression of my respect to our Mother Earth.”
Not just for nature’s gifts of colours, forms, and textures, but also for the need for us to embrace a sustainable and circular economy, as it was before. Mariana has had the privilege to meet and learn from fantastic people over the years; makers, designers, natural dyers, environmentalists, artists, and scientists who have been fundamental in influencing her work and outlook.
Through collaboration with artists and designers through natural dyeing and sustainable methods, Mariana has committed her energy to influencing, sharing, and contributing to the foundation of reevaluating fashion and its role in a sustainable world. She quotes, “Yes, Studio Kühü is not the biggest brick in the pile but foundations are made of many and strength to influence and make change comes from the collective”.
How we Work
Our studio is located in Camden, London, as part of the artist community of Bow Arts Camden Studios. We use flowers and organics that are donated locally by our corner shops and Garden Center. Instead of throwing them away, we gather and preserve them for our dyes. The dye baths are then used to make lake pigments, and the filtered water is used to water our urban garden. The leftover plant material is composted after being strained from the dye. Each piece we create is hand-dyed with sustainable fabrics and crafted with love. Our studio is responsible for dyeing the fabrics, and the final pieces are manufactured in London.
Fabrics
The Bamboo silk we use is certified under Global Organic Textile Standard. (GOTS).
The Peace silk is UK-grown. The silkworms feed off the mulberry leaves and provide the organic silk cocoons.
This process is monitored by the Soil Association, which awarded the certification for Organic Silk in 2014.
The linen we use is Oeko-Tex certified.
To attain Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification, the fabric is tested and certified to be free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances known to be harmful to human health and the planet.
The T-shirts and sweatshirt are supplied from a sustainable source, using only the best raw materials, grown or produced in ways that do not harm people, animals or the environment. With 100% GOTS certified organic cotton and recycled polyester.